Tourism is well developed in North Male Atoll, which includes the tiny single-island atolls of Gaafaru Falhu and Kaashidhoo to its north. The island of Huraa is well used to tourists visiting from nearby resorts, but it retains its small-island feel. Astonishingly impressive Gili Lankanfushi is the original pioneer of barefoot luxury in Maldives, where the 'no shoes, no news' philosophy reigns supreme and few visitors come away anything but amazed. Huvafen Fushi set a new standard for stylish, sophisticated luxury when it opened in 2005 and has inspired countless imitators elsewhere in Maldives and beyond. Want to know where the one per cent really holiday? It's at Cheval Blanc Randheli in Randheli, a dazzling retreat of utter extravagance, extraordinary ambition and see-and-be-seen fabulousness.

The Southern Atolls have a justified reputation for independent mindedness. In 1959, the southernmost atolls broke away from Male's rule to form the short-lived United Suvadive Republic before being forcibly taken back under the control of the central government a few years later. At the northwestern end of Fuvahmulah, the absolutely stunning Thoondu Beach is a wide band of dazzling white overlooked by swaying palms. The lake at the far end of Hithadhoo is the biggest in the country and attracts varied birdlife to its shores. At the northeastern tip of the atoll, the interesting island of Isdhoo is home to a hawitta (ancient artificial mound). On the southern edge of the atoll, the capital island of Nilandhoo is home to the second-oldest mosque in the country. At 8km long, Gan – not to be confused with the other two Gans in the south – is the longest island in the country and one of the most interesting too with a slew of Buddhist ruins.

The centre of Maldives' independent travel scene, the island of Maafushi has undergone seismic change since the first guesthouses opened here in 2010, and it now has over 50 hotels and guesthouses. It is easily Maldives' most cosmopolitan and progressive inhabited island, and there's a bikini beach and a very competitive diving and excursions market to boot. You can even leave the island to drink alcohol on floating bars just outside the harbour, or take a day trip to one of the many nearby resorts that welcome day guests in search of alcohol, pork and a more relaxed attitude to semi-clad sunbathers.